Four Against Everest

by Woodrow Wilson Sayre

Paperback, 1964

Status

Available

Call number

796.522

Collection

Publication

Tower Books (1964), Mass Market Paperback, 284 pages

Description

This historic book may have numerous typos and missing text. Purchasers can download a free scanned copy of the original book (without typos) from the publisher. Not indexed. Not illustrated. 1819 edition. Excerpt: ...erflen Betretungsfalle; die In firnmente und das Barbierzeng wegznnehmen.-F760. Diejenigen; welche die Wundarzneykunft nie gelernt hab en; und fich doch mit Ausubung dcrfelben befangen'; find gleich im erfien Betretungsfalle nnnachfichtlieh mit.Arrefifirafe zu belegen. Den Seffeltrage-ru und ubrigen Storern im Barbieren aber hat der Stadtma gifirat diefen llnfug unter Arreft-und Leibesftrafe zu verbiethenx das Barbierzeug ihnen gleich wegzunehmen, und uber das Gefihehene Bericht zu erfiatten 4). 7 J.7v1. Nachdem vorgekommen i dass die Badergefellen und hofbefrehten Barbierer ganz eigeninachtig und ohne Vorwiffen eines Arztes oder ihrer Principalen, Jedermann, des es verlangt zur Ader laffenz wurde dem chirurgifchen Gremium mitgegeben) ihren Gefellen diefen Unfug-ernftlich zu unterfagen und eiuzubinden7 dass fie kunftig jede anver'langte Aderlass ihren Oienfigebern vorlaufig zu melden haben es fey denn dass augenblickliche Gefahr auf dem Verzuge hafte, oder diefelbe von einem ordentlichen Arzte und in deffen Beyfehn verordnet werden follte L). In Bohmen wurde diess den Chirurgen b e y S ch iv a ngeren uberhaupt nnterfagt 3).-Z.7b2. Da jedoch das Aderlaffen-und Schropfem nebfi demz dass eines und das andere fehr oft keinen Verzug leidet- folche-Operationen find7 die zur Wundarzney gehoren; fo find folche kiin-ftighin den fich hier und da ordnungiimassig fesshaft machenden Chirurgen-wenn fie fich auch kein burgerliches Gewerbe anfchaffenx ungeortzuge-. ftatten und in vorkommenden Widerfprui-hsfallen zu erlaubene). i.: 6. Pflichten und Rechte der Wundarzte. S.765&ap… (more)

User reviews

LibraryThing member stevage
A very enjoyable, if antiquated, account of a nearly successful expedition to climb Everest all the way from Kathmandu, with a team of only four men.

Sayre sets out with the goal of describing the "internals" of mountain climbing - the emotions, the thought processes and so forth. Perhaps by the
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standards of the time, he succeeded, but by modern standards, he falls well short. The book is still very much a blow-by-blow account of the difficulties of climbing a mountain, lugging equipment around, making tactical decisions, and so forth.

Still, it's an enjoyable read, particularly with a patronising eye on his gushing over "modern lightweight gear", and his lamenting that there were no mountaineering challenges left in the Alps - mountaineers resorting to climbing the hardest routes of the hardest mountains, in winter, at night.
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LibraryThing member edspicer
I wouldn't recommend this to my friends because I didn't find this book interesting or entertaining at all. 3Q2P The cover art is okay and I'd recommend this to high school students and adults. I chose to read this because I had to choose a non-fiction book to read for my class. LilyG
LibraryThing member phomchick
Woodrow Wilson Sayre, a grandson of U.S. President Woodrow Wilson, served in the U.S. Airforce in WWII, worked as a professor of philosophy, and spent some time doing a bit of mountain climbing. This amazing book chronicles the most interesting of his mountaineering exploits, a four-man expedition
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to the north side of Mt. Everest. In 1962 only 12 attempts on the peak had been made, all of them large expeditions with an army of porters and most using bottled oxygen. The Sayre Expedition (one is almost tempted to instead call it a Lark) was the first to use lightweight alpine techniques on Everest, nor did his team use bottled oxygen.

Because they wanted to climb the North Col route, and Tibet had been under the control of Chine since 1950 and was closed to foreigners, they had to resort to subterfuge to approach the mountain. . They applied to the Nepalese government for a permit to climb Gyachung Kang, an unclimbed peak to the west of Everest. Their plan was to set up a base camp, send their Sherpas away for a month, and take off over the Nup La pass and over the East Rongbuk Glacier for 20 miles to the North Face of Everest. Using relay-carrying techniques, they got to Everest and up onto the North Col. Though accidents and exhaustion stopped the team short of the summit, they got to over 25,000 ft. on the North Ridge. Their retreat, was always a step away from disaster, as they were low on food, and two weeks behind schedule.

This book is a classic of mountaineering literature. All climbers should read it, and anyone interested in mountain climbing and trying to understand why people climb mountains will find it to be a fascinating read. Sayre had a very dry wit, and the book is full of funny comments. I thought it was one of the most entertaining books on mountaineering I have ever read.
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Language

Physical description

284 p.; 7 inches

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